Villa D'Este

The city of West Hollywood has a well earned reputation as a center for design, as is proven by the Pacific Design Center, the new library or even sculptures of stone, metal and neon located along the center divide of the old Route 66 that is today's Santa Monica Boulevard. Yet these modern additions to the city's appearance tilt the balance away from it's notoriety as a city dedicated to preserving it's architectural history. Four years after it's incorporation the city adopted it's first Preservation Ordinance in 1989. Since then, more than one structure has been saved from the wrecking ball. 

New attention was brought to West Hollywood's hidden gems with the 2012 Historic Preservation Media Tour. The unofficial part of the tour began as EyeOnWeho.com editor Reed Berry and I cruised up and down Sunset Boulevard. Unlike many who patrol the strip, we weren't looking for dates (this time), we were searching for a parking lot without a visible address. This elusive gathering place to start the tour was finally discovered upon our fifth drive-by. The visual confirmation came when when we noticed a solitary card table under a tree with no pitcher of lemonade in sight.
 

Piazza del Sol

Sunset Tower Hotel

Patio Del Moro

After a warm greeting from event organizers, our group is herded down the street to our first important location. Even as an adult, walking with a group of 18 people, the words "if we get separated meet back at the bus" leap to mind. Stop number one brought us to the steps of Piazza del Sol, a towering former apartment building built in 1927. Seemingly plucked off of a set from The Borgias, this Italian Renaissance Revival building now hosts offices and Katana restaurant. Sitting so close to the street, it's towering stucco facade crowned with decorative rafters is often over-looked by passing motorists. 

Passing the modern Andaz hotel, best known as the Sunset Strip's 'Riot Hyatt' for legendary activities of past rock star guests, our group heads east to what I consider the jewel of the Sunset Strip, the legendary Sunset Tower Hotel. Rising majestically over it's neighbors the 195-foot-tall art deco masterpiece was completed in 1931 as an apartment building once called home by Hollywood royalty. Everyone from Jean Harlow, Clark Gable, and Carole Lombard, to Mae West, Claudette Colbert and Elizabeth Taylor with Conrad Hilton lived here at one time or another. After moving in, probably with the help of a starving student or two, Truman Capote once wrote "I am living in a very posh establishment, the Sunset Tower, which, or so the local gentry tell me, is where every scandal that ever happened, happened."  If you ever hear a story about the Sunset Tower that sounds to good to be true, it's usually true. Gangster Bugsy Siegel was asked to vacate his ground floor suite after being arrested for running a gambling joint on the premises. John Wayne, also a one time ground floor resident, kept a cow (and I don't mean Kate Smith) on his balcony in order to have fresh milk.  There's even a tale about Diana Ross who would seek the help of neighbor, Rocky Horror Picture Show's Tim Curry, to push the elevator buttons as her nails were too long. And that's probably why many drag queens don't live above the first floor of a building. 

It's draw to today's Hollywood elite continues as the likes of Jennifer Aniston, Justin Bieber, Warren Beatty, Johnny Depp and the new Spider-Man, Andrew Garfield, are often found at this noted hotel. Thanks to a very kind and helpful staff, our tour is shown the adjacent Tower Bar restaurant, the canopy-framed terrace and pool areas which provide refuge to those seeking shelter from TMZ cameras. The sleek interior is framed with dark wood panels, streamlined moldings, and dim wall sconces, with walls covered in black and white celebrity photos. The furnishings have a classic modern look evoking a lost era of elegance as you imagine a glamorous Greta Garbo floating across the lobby with an Irish wolfhound on leash. In modern times , the Sunset Tower hosts the annual paparazzi-fest known as the Vanity Fair Oscar party. 

Leaving the Sunset Tower with great regret, we board a bus to take us on the next leg of our tour. We are driven to take in the colonial revival styles of Hart House on De Longpre, as well as Colonial House and La Ronda on Havenhurst. All examples of an east coast style that almost died out with the popularity of art deco in the late 20s.  A more familiar California style greets us at Patio del Moro on Fountain, which in Spanish means I want more patio. Our first example of multi-family courtyard centered structures, it's hard not to admire the colorful tile caped entrance arch and intricate spade pattern sliding garage doors. Around the corner we take in the Spanish revival comfort of Villa Primavera. Across the street we found the first multi-family unit built in the neighborhood. Puzzled by the large RV initials above the entrance I concluded it was too narrow for recreational vehicle parking and was told that it represented the name of the building, Romanesque Villas.
 

Villa Primavera

Harper House

Villa D'Este

Up to this time we simply admired the exteriors of the last few apartments we had passed. This time we are treated with a private tour of one of the owner units. It just happened that one of our tour guides, an architect has resided here for almost 25 years. As we climb the narrow stair well, many are shocked to cross this second floor entrance and discover a two story space with open living area and what must be a 30 foot ceiling. Beautiful original hand painted beams floated above a stunning but simple multi-tiered candelabra based chandelier. The room wrapped in the owner's own colorful and texture inspired paintings exudes a nostalgic sense of comfort.

As we continue up the street, which has become known as The Harper Avenue District, we marvel at our inability to tell the difference between original Spanish revival apartment buildings and more recent additions which were painstakingly designed to honor and fit in with the neighborhood. Despite one featuring a modern addition of a bronze statue of an angel with Farrah Fawcett hair, the common theme of tile roofs, wrought iron entrances with tile capped steps are welcome details. All the  trappings of modernity are soon forgotten when we reach the Italian revival apartments named Villa D'Este, well known in architecture and history circles for it's grand courtyard with central fountain and unique tile floor trench that once carried water to the entrance. Once more my mind harkens back to Hollywood's golden era and the image of Ramon Novarro rushing off to an early morning shoot. Setting this property apart from others is how each unit has their own small private courtyard within the greater central one. We are treated to an unexpected tour of one of the units as it's owner, observing our group from open French doors, invited us in to see his stylishly decorated home. Much as it was intended in 1928, here was someone enjoying it's indoor-outdoor living features. 

One more colonial revival two-story welcomed us on Laurel street. It's white exterior, shutter framed windows and long front porch evoke a Connecticut setting and the sight of Loretta Young sweeping out the front door in a flowing dress. The bittersweet news on this property is that it belongs to the City of West Hollywood but continues to sit empty with no current usage plans. The tree and foliage covered yard is open to public as we observe parents, children and pets enjoying a rare WeHo open space. Wrapping up the tour we catch a couple of French revival beauties along Crescent Heights Boulevard. From the La Fontaine and Savoy Plaza to the Tuscany and The Granville we are reminded that, thanks to California weather, we can enjoy a touch of European elegance without the expensive airfare. 

As the city of West Hollywood prepares for it's biggest event of the year, Christopher Street West's annual LA PRIDE celebration, this important tour of architecture and historical preservation underlines that this relatively young community is on the right path. A direction beyond a limited focus on equality but one which treasures that which has come before us. Here's hoping that today's tour can be a repeat affair so that other lovers of heritage and design can also enjoy what West Hollywood has to offer.

Photos: Korbin Bielski  (unless otherwise noted)